Border Crossing, Three Perfect Dockings & Fresh Mussels

May 31 wasn’t exactly glamorous sailing, but it may have been one of our most productive days for the season…

Dubrovnik marked our temporary departure from the Schengen Zone. Since non-EU citizens are generally limited to 90 days within a rolling 180-day period, and we have more than 100 days planned aboard KORA this summer, a little strategic border hopping is required.

First stop: checking out of Croatia near Dubrovnik.
Second stop: checking into Montenegro at Zelenika.
Third stop: Tivat for fuel.

Three side-tie dockings in one day. All very different, each with their own unique challenges. Three successful dockings! Zero incidents! We were feeling pretty pleased with ourselves by the end of it!!!

Tivat, being tax and duty free, is one of the best places in the region to fuel up, attracting everything from cruising sailboats to superyachts and cruise ships. KORA took on 300 litres (79 gallons) of diesel at €1.69 per litre ($AUD 2.74 / litre, or $US7.44 / Gallon). Not exactly cheap, but a noticeable jump from the €1.37 we paid at the same fuel dock last July.

The fuel pumps here move fast. Very fast!!! The kind of fast that has Doug’s finger pushing just slightly and very tentatively on the nozzle, determined not to make a mess or pick up a large bill.

While fueling, Doug asked the dock attendant what the largest fuel delivery he’d ever handled was.
“About 400,000 litres.”
The bill?
“About €1.2 million.”
Suddenly our fuel bill didn’t seem so bad!

With full fuel tanks and full water tanks after putting the watermaker hard to work, KORA was feeling refreshed and ready for the next chapter of the season.

We spent three nights anchored alone in the beautiful Bay of Kotor at Uvala Ljuta. Towering mountains, approximately 6200 ft or 1900 m hight, rose straight from the water while terracotta-roofed villages dotted the shoreline. Locals swam from tiny beaches, paddle boards drifted past, and every now and then another boat would stop by for a swim before disappearing again. Peaceful, picturesque, and surprisingly uncrowded.

Of course, no stop is complete without food… Just six minutes by paddle board from KORA sits a small oyster farm restaurant. We may have arrived with wet shorts, but that’s boat life! From our table we watched mussels being pulled directly from the water, then sat back to enjoy fresh sea bream, crusty bread, homemade white wine, and some of the freshest mussels imaginable. We’re not oyster fans, but now we’re regretting having not tried at least one. Honestly, I could live on this diet indefinitely!

Meanwhile, preparations are underway for the arrival of our first guests of the season. Cabins have been cleaned, boat lockers organized, windows cleaned, decks scrubbed, and KORA is looking her best.

Buzz and Kate arrive tomorrow, and we’re so excited to finally share this year’s adventures with friends. Doug will have a fellow sailor to debate boat things with, while Kate and I have already identified our priorities: sunshine, prosecco, front-deck cushions, and absolutely no discussions involving boat maintenance of any kind.

Life is all about balance, after all. 😉