After two wonderful weeks with Steve and his family, KORA suddenly felt… quiet. No more cousins playing cards around the table. No more chatter coming from every corner of the boat. And for some reason, the absence of our extended family made us miss the only one missing from our family of four even more. (Em – next year you must join us!!!)
Our goal over the next few days was simple: keep moving east toward Kos while staying one step ahead of the Meltemi. Along the way we needed to find sheltered anchorages where we could safely spend each night if the forecast worsened. Throughout the day we kept one eye on the horizon and the other on the latest weather updates, adjusting course whenever necessary.
By late afternoon we dropped anchor in the tiny island of Schoinoussa. The sail had been mostly enjoyable, one might even venture to all the first half of the day calm. But throughout the day the winds picked up from 12 to 25 knots. KORA definitely got a good workout, the final hour becoming considerably bumpier than we’d hoped.
In Schoinoussa, with the anchor well set, Kaitlyn decided it was finally time for that long-awaited swim off the back of KORA. Well… sort of. The wind was still funneling through the bay, so instead of floating peacefully she found herself clinging to the buoy tied behind KORA with both hands, bobbing around and hanging on with all her might. Unfortunately, no photos. We were focused on our rescue strategy if needed!
Swimming plans: postponed. Dinner ashore sounded like a much better idea! Doug volunteered to stay aboard and keep an eye on the anchor while the girls headed to shore. With no dinghy dock available to tie up to, he graciously dropped us to shore before heading back to KORA.
One thing we were pleasantly surprised to find was a small accessibility lift connecting the harbour to the parking lot. Historic villages throughout Europe can be challenging to navigate for anyone with limited mobility, so it was lovely to see thoughtful infrastructure that made the waterfront more accessible.
The walk to town, however, still involved a long, dusty climb. Halfway up, a kind couple staying at an airbnb we passed slowed their car and offered us a lift. Before I could answer, Kaitlyn gave me a sideways look, quietly reminding me, “You always taught me not to get into cars with strangers!” Fair point. So we kept walking.
Along the way we passed grazing goats, sleepy sheep and spectacular views over the harbour below (can you spot KORA?) before arriving at Deli, a restaurant recommended by some other dock neighbours (not the Aussies this time) back in Naxos.
Another good suggestion! The homemade pasta was delicious, but somehow the view stole the show. As the afternoon softened into evening, we wandered the quiet lanes of Schoinoussa, enjoying one last look across the harbour before making the much easier downhill walk back to the beach.
Doug was already waiting in the dinghy. He’d been watching our location from KORA and was hoping we’d make it back before darkness settled in.
Back aboard, we watched another beautiful Cycladic sunset before ending the evening the way Kaitlyn and I often do whenever we’re together – with a LEGO set spread across the saloon table. It has become a bit of a tradition over the years. Some families play charades, others play board games. We build tiny plastic masterpieces.
Tomorrow, though, the forecast is promising another early start… and another encounter with the Meltemi. Argh!
