Kaitlyn is here! With one very important crew member finally arriving, the family was complete once again. (Well, almost. Emily is in Australia, her usual place of residence May-August. Hopefully next year she’ll join us!)
Oscar, Chelsea and I practically sprinted to the ferry terminal to meet Kaitlyn, and before she’d even had a chance to properly settle aboard KORA, we were already making an essential stop… Gelato. Naturally! Karen was still dreaming about the Dubai Chocolate gelato from the previous day, so back to Aktaion Pastry Boutique we went. The display cabinets looked more like an art gallery than a bakery. Sadly, impending dinner plans meant there wasn’t room for dessert.
That evening our Australian neighbours pointed us toward another fantastic recommendation: Elliniko Naxos, a family-run restaurant where traditional Naxian recipes have been served for generations. With Kaitlyn’s introduction to Greek cuisine officially underway, everyone became a little more adventurous. While we still feasted on goat, squid, and lamb… we followed Oscar’s recommendation and tried different types of preparations. Every dish arriving at the table seemed better than the last!
The cousins found great humour in the seat Kaitlyn chose to sit in unbeknownst of her surroundings. Considering she’s midway through medical school (while somehow also completing a Biomedical Engineering PhD), it seemed entirely appropriate! Meanwhile, Chelsea found a local hotel that also seemed to have a fitting name. Haha!
After dinner we wandered to the Temple of Apollo, better known as the Portara – the enormous marble doorway that has become the symbol of Naxos. Standing alone on a tiny islet overlooking the harbour, it’s all that remains of an ambitious temple begun over 2,500 years ago. Watching the sun sink behind the ancient gateway was one of those simple moments that just called for a family photograph!
The next morning delivered what would become one of the highlights of our entire summer. A cooking class at Basiliko Farm. If you ever find yourself on Naxos… You must go there! Seriously! This family-run farm has been welcoming visitors for generations, and from the moment Anna greeted us, it felt less like a tour and more like spending the day with extended family and close friends.
We wandered through gardens picking our own vegetables and met the animals.
We also explored the old olive press and centuries-old farm buildings, and learned about olive trees that have stood here for thousands of years (the thicker the trunk the older the tree!). One tree even predates the Roman Empire – can you guess which one from the photos?
Then came the cooking. Fresh eggplant, squash, onions, and herbs we’d harvested ourselves were transformed into traditional Greek dishes under Anna’s patient guidance. We shared the class with a lovely family from Manly in Sydney – just one of the many Australian families we have met while island-hopping in Greece.
After all our hard work came the reward. A long family lunch around the table with unlimited homemade lemonade, local wine, and the delicious meal we’d created together. Unfortunately, I only got pics of the first course – too much fun was being had later to remember to take more pics.
Somewhere along the way Kaitlyn managed to lose her hat over a small embankment into the creek below – fortunately Doug was nominated as chief hat retrieval officer, and a successful rescue mission followed. Chelsea also made a few new animal friends.
As if that wasn’t enough, the afternoon ended exactly as you’d hope when spending the day on a Greek homestead – with music, traditional dancing, and plate smashing accompanied by a chorus of OPA!
Back in Naxos Town, the younger generation headed for one final swim while Steve and Catherine relaxed with cocktails overlooking the beach. Doug and I stayed behind to give KORA a much-needed wash, although we both suspected the thick coating of salt would probably return within hours once we ventured back into the Meltemi.
That evening became our final celebration together. Dinner beside the harbour coincided with the World Cup semi-final between Spain and France, with supporters from both countries filling the restaurants with songs, cheers, and good-natured rivalry. As darkness fell, the town seamlessly transitioned into celebrations for Saint Nikodemos, Naxos’ patron saint. Church bells rang, music echoed through the streets, fireworks lit the harbour, and locals danced well into the night.
Back aboard KORA, however, one final battle remained. Codenames. Game started around 11:20pm and lasted well past midnight! Chelsea and Kaitlyn teamed up against Karen and Oscar… and absolutely demolished us. Twice! We’ll simply say Chelsea has a remarkable talent for giving clues.
The following morning came far too quickly. After two unforgettable weeks aboard KORA, it was time to say goodbye to Steve, Catherine, Oscar and Chelsea. The Meltemi had other ideas about our sailing plans, so rather than endure two days of rough seas, they wisely caught the ferry to Astypalea, before flying onto Athens. There were plenty of hugs, a few reluctant goodbyes, and already talk of where KORA might take us all next.
Now it was time for our next adventure. Kaitlyn remained aboard as we turned our attention toward Kos, where more friends from Texas await. The forecast? Four-to-six-foot seas. Forty-knot winds. Given Kaitlyn’s history on boats throughout Europe, we’re hoping she’s ready for one wild ride! At least it started off quite pleasantly 🙂
