Tucked beneath the towering mountains of Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor, our final few days in the Inner Bay delivered a little bit of everything: questionable marina ropes, a summer thunderstorm, spectacular scenery, the arrival of great friends, and what may have been the best dinner we’ve ever eaten. Oh, and somewhere along the way, Stifler’s Mom made an appearance too.
On the morning of June 3rd, KORA glided through the dramatic Bay of Kotor, where towering mountains make even the largest cruise ships seem small. By afternoon, we were back alongside a dock, tying up in the heart of Kotor’s beautiful Old Town. If you’ve been following along, you’ll know about slime lines – the ropes marinas use to help secure boats stern-to the dock. Usually they’re just slimy. These ones appeared to have developed their own ecosystem. Every handhold seemed covered in mussels, shells, or unidentified sea life. We even picked up a small starfish along the way (don’t worry, he was promptly returned home). Eventually a marinero jumped aboard to help, struggled just as much as I had, and shortly afterward a diver appeared to clean the lines. Validation at last!
The real excitement, however, was the arrival of Buzz and Kate! Third summer in a row joining us for sailing adventures aboard KORA. After a wander through Kotor’s beautiful Old Town, we headed to the ferry terminal to greet them. That evening a thunderstorm rolled through town, sending everyone scrambling indoors for dinner and shelter. By morning the skies had cleared, and Buzz and Kate tackled the famous hike to San Giovanni Fortress for spectacular views over the Bay of Kotor while Doug and I, having made the climb twice before, cheered them on from sea level.
Then came the highlight of the week… On June 4th, a short sail brought us to a quiet anchorage near Mlini, where a small boat from Konoba Catovića Mlini collected us from KORA and carried us up a narrow freshwater stream to dinner. Set around a centuries-old watermill surrounded by gardens, flowing streams, and towering mountains, the restaurant felt magical before we had even seen a menu. Then came the food: grilled octopus, shrimp, incredible wine, the restaurant’s signature sea bass baked in a crust of salt and filleted tableside, and homemade desserts.
Buzz and Doug couldn’t resist ordering a Serbian Shiraz called Stifler’s Mom. If you’ve seen American Pie, you’ll understand why. Kate and Karen opted for a French rosé and watched the boys enjoy their selection perhaps a little too much. Haha!!! By the end of the evening, all four of us had independently reached the same conclusion: this may have been the best dinner we’ve ever had.
Back aboard KORA, the night continued with country music, a little more wine, and the kind of conversations that only happen when good friends gather in beautiful places.
The following morning brought paddle boarding, a couple of brave (and chilly) Adriatic plunges from Kate & Buzz, and one final look back at the Bay of Kotor. Kotor, you’ve been spectacular. We may be leaving, but we won’t be forgetting you anytime soon.
