Sometimes an island just feels particularly special. For us, that island was Naxos. Whether it was the incredible scenery, the welcoming locals, the mountain villages, or simply the memories we made together as a family, Naxos quickly became one of our favourite stops of the summer. And with three nights planned here – our longest stay so far – we finally had time to slow down and really get to know a place.
The largest island in the Cyclades, Naxos is known for its fertile valleys, rugged mountains, traditional villages, and some of Greece’s finest local produce. While Mykonos is famous for its glamour and Paros for its picturesque seaside towns, Naxos offers a richer mix of experiences, combining beautiful beaches with mountain villages, fascinating history, and a slower, more authentic way of life.
With KORA safely tied up in the port marina of Naxos Town, we wasted no time heading out to discover the island.
Naxos Town (or Chora as all the main towns are called on the islands) is wonderfully atmospheric. The waterfront buzzes with cafés and tavernas, while narrow whitewashed alleyways wind uphill through the old Venetian quarter toward the castle, revealing another postcard-worthy view around almost every corner.
One of our favourite discoveries was Avaton 1739, a rooftop wine bar perched above the old town. Between panoramic views across the harbour and a tasting of local wines and craft beers, we could happily have stayed there all afternoon.
The men, however, had one small complaint. Their first beers arrived at what could generously be described as… “Greek cool.” (A little cooler than room temperature.) Sensing their disappointment, our wonderful hostess quietly disappeared, returning later with beautifully chilled replacements – on the house – and made sure every beer after that was equally frosty. Hospitality like that is something we’ve experienced again and again throughout Greece!
Oscar, meanwhile, had declared he needed a little recovery time after several late nights (courtesy of Chelsea and me), and chose to remain aboard KORA. He did, however, make a special appearance from the dock to wave at us up above on the hilltop (see pic above!).
After returning to the boat for a rest, Catherine and Chelsea disappeared in search of local items from the town shops while Oscar and I set off with a much simpler objective… we had a Gelato emergency! It had been at least 48hrs since our last serving, and we were feeling the need! It was delicious!!! Little did we know, we weren’t the only ones with that brilliant idea. The girls returned triumphantly carrying half a kilogram of the best gelato we’d seen in weeks. The creamiest and most flavourful melon, Dubai chocolate, and meringue. Let’s just say our own much smaller servings suddenly seemed rather inadequate so we had to partake in our second serving for the day!
Meanwhile, Steve and Doug had mysteriously vanished, only to be found aboard the motor yacht next to us making friends with a lovely Australian couple from Sydney. They spend every European summer cruising the Mediterranean to escape the Australian winter. We, on the other hand, are quite happy escaping the Texas summer. Unfortunately, no photos were taken. By that time we were a few beverages in, and simply enjoying the company!
Steve and I did take the opportunity though to recreate a sibling photo we’d taken almost exactly one year prior – a fun little tradition that might just have to continue. Steve – are you ready to book your cabins for next year?
That evening we followed our dock neighbour’s recommendation to Taverna Maro, where another memorable Greek dinner reminded us why we never seem to tire of the local food.
The following morning we traded the coast for the mountains. The island’s bus network made getting around remarkably easy, carrying us inland to Filoti, the largest mountain village on Naxos. Life moves at a different pace here. Elderly locals gathered beneath the plane trees in the village square, cafés spilled onto shaded terraces, and it felt like a place where not much has changed for generations.
We hiked up to the top of the hill for some spectacular views over the village and Naxos. Along the way, Chelsea made another feline friend!
One particularly interesting stop was an old neighbourhood of traditional workshops. We wandered through a preserved general store, barber, carpenter’s workshop, and historic blacksmith, where we learned the story of Antonis Pagidas, a refugee from Chios who rebuilt his life here after the horrific Chios Massacre of 1822. His blacksmith shop went on to serve generations of craftsmen across Naxos and the neighbouring islands – a small but fascinating reminder of how history often lives on through ordinary people.
From Filoti we set off on what was supposedly a 25-minute walk to Chalki. Let’s just say our navigation skills added considerably to the experience. Following narrow goat paths (several seen in farm paddocks along the way), climbing over rocky tracks, a few times backtracking our steps, and often wondering whether we were still on the correct route, we eventually arrived in the island’s former capital.
Thankfully, the village proved well worth the extra effort. Elegant old mansions, shady courtyards, artisan shops, a restaurant slowly roasting meat over an outdoor spit, and a cute little corner cafe which provided the perfect excuse to stop for a cold drink before catching the bus back to the harbour.
But our thoughts were already turning to the evening ahead. Kaitlyn’s flight from the United States (via Athens to Naxos) was due to arrive, and all were excited to see her!
Stay tuned for Naxos Part II… where the family reunion begins.
