After a week of gliding effortlessly across calm seas, today’s 23NM journey to Mljet came as a bit of a surprise. The winds were light enough that we motored most of the way, occasionally rolling out the genoa when conditions allowed, but the sea had developed a noticeable chop that reminded us we were, in fact, crossing open water.
Today’s destination was Mljet, one of our favorite stops from last summer. Normally we try not to repeat overnight stops, preferring to explore somewhere new each night, but Mljet is both strategically located on our route to Dubrovnik and simply too beautiful to skip.
The island is famous for its national park, crystal-clear water, dense pine forests, and the stunning saltwater lakes of Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero. Depending on the light, the water seems to change colors every few minutes – sapphire blue, turquoise, emerald green, and every shade in between.
We tied up once again at Stella Maris in Polače, a restaurant that made such an impression on us last year while visiting with Khali and Cam that returning felt almost mandatory.
After securing Kora, we grabbed some bikes and set off on a 16km ride around Veliko Jezero. Starting in Polače, we passed the Roman Palace ruins, St. Nikola’s Church, Babine Kuće, and the small bridge connecting the large and small lakes. We continued around the shoreline toward Soline before looping back across the larger bridge and returning to town.
While a few brave swimmers were already enjoying the water, it still looked a little too refreshing for our tastes. Instead, we parked the bikes from time to time and explored several of the small hiking trails branching off into the forest and down toward secluded coves.
The ride itself was spectacular! The electric bikes spent most of the day in manual mode, only receiving assistance on the steeper climbs. By the end, however, I felt quite saddle sore! Apparently the amount of “natural padding” I thought I possessed is not nearly as substantial as I had previously believed. I suspect tomorrow may provide further confirmation.
After a quick nap aboard Kora and a grocery run to replace supplies lost during the recent freezer incident, we returned to Stella Maris for dinner. The meal was every bit as good as we remembered!
Fresh bread, caprese salad, and grilled Adriatic octopus started the evening. Our server explained that the secret to keeping octopus tender is in the boiling process before it ever reaches the grill. Whatever the secret was, it worked. It may have been the best octopus we’ve ever eaten.
That was followed by locally caught sea bream and homemade pasta with garlic and oil-cured cheese. And because restraint seemed unnecessary at that point, we finished with chocolate cake and ice cream – which, in true American fashion, we immediately combined into a single dessert.
As the evening wound down, our server pointed to the dramatic streaks of clouds crossing the sky above the harbor and explained a local belief that these high clouds can signal changing weather ahead. Whether folklore or forecasting, they certainly added to the spectacular view from our prime seats in the konoba.
A short sail, a long bike ride, incredible food, and one of the most beautiful islands in Croatia. We’ll sleep well tonight!
