Friends, Fortresses & Full Throttle: Hvar, Part 1 (BK – Before Kaitlyn)

The morning started strong …. a nice breeze …. breakfast on the move, eggs and avocado (because we are clearly getting fancier as this trip goes on) …. bound for the island of Hvar.

This wasn’t just any stop. This was Rebin’s turf. We first met Rebin in La Rochelle when he was picking up his own Fountaine Pajot Isla 40, Helin – Kora’s near twin. He joined us for the Bay of Biscay crossing, became part of our floating family, and, as boat friends sometimes do, drifted into “lifelong friend” territory. We hadn’t seen him since June 3, 2024, in Gijon (photo from Dijon w/ Amanda & Evan Macaluso!). That was about to change 🙂

In true Rebin fashion, he had a mooring ball waiting for us in Pokonji Dol Bay… and his jet ski holding it. We arrived, freed his jet ski (under the watchful stares of nearby boaters who clearly knew the unwritten rule: never touch another man’s toy on the water), tied it to Kora, and took the ball. Cameras were out – because who doesn’t film an American-registered boat coming in and taking another man’s jet ski?

Once Kora was secure, we dinghied to shore and hiked the short 20 minutes into Hvar’s Old Town, admiring the views out over the bay where we had anchored.

In Hvar’s Old Town, Doug, Cam, and Khali climbed up to the Tvrđava Španjola (Spanish Fortress), built in the mid-16th century, for sweeping views. At the same time, I wandered the backstreets – stone alleyways, bursts of bougainvillea, the smell of lavender everywhere. A grocery run rounded out the afternoon.

That night, Kora hosted: gnocchi, grilled chicken (courtesy of Cam & Khali), and limoncello all around. Laughter, stories, and a very casual … “oh, and tomorrow Kaitlyn’s being delivered to the boat by private water taxi from Split.” Arranged, of course, by Rebin – master of making us feel far fancier than we are. No ferry queues, no sweaty luggage schlepping – just a sleek speedboat gliding across the Med. 

The next morning, while we waited for Kaitlyn’s arrival, Rebin took us out for a ride. And by ride, I mean his Williams dinghy at speeds of 85 km/h that made our Highfield dinghy feel like a rowboat. Cam and Khali roared behind on his jet ski. We skimmed past secret coves, jaw-dropping villas, and glamorous beach clubs with water so clear you could spot a coin at the bottom (more on that to come!!!). Palmižana Beach, Mlin Beach, to name a few…

And finally lunch at Mustačo in Pokonji Dol Bay with its pebble beach and relaxed vibe. Lunch arrived on a rustic wooden board: curls of prosciutto, local cheeses, olives, fresh bread, and refreshing drinks. Courtesy of Rebin, whose hospitality rivals any five-star host.

Somewhere in all this, Doug realized his wallet had gone missing. Cue “oh no” face. He and Cam decided to borrow the jet ski and head to the Old Town to retrace Doug’s steps of the previous day. Unfortunately, they returned without the wallet but were fueled up and ready to go. We planned to tear apart Kora later that night in search of it!

For now, though, all distractions were set aside because the private water taxi had arrived. This was straight-up “Bond girl arrival” energy, pulling up beside Kora like it was a scene from a movie, the sunlight catching the water just right, and straight onto the deck of her parents’ catamaran anchored in a turquoise bay in Croatia. This is the life!