With our first round of guests departed, KORA suddenly felt a little quieter as we began making our way toward Athens, where my brother Steve, Catherine, Oscar, and Chelsea will soon join us for the next chapter of the adventure. ❤️
Originally, we had planned a much longer route south through the Ionian Sea, rounding the western Peloponnese before turning north toward Athens – a voyage of roughly 300 nautical miles. But sailing plans have a habit of changing.
To our surprise, the Corinth Canal reopened to marine traffic on June 17 (several weeks earlier than local authorities predicted), following months of stabilization and repair work. Instead of sailing around the Peloponnese, we will now cut straight through mainland Greece, reducing the journey by well over 100 nautical miles. The Ionian Pelagos will have to wait for next year. (Orange markers on the map below show our overnight stops on this new route, white blue & purple markers indicate some interesting stops we’re making along the way.)
With extra time suddenly on our hands, we decided there was only one sensible thing to do: go exploring….
A leisurely lap clockwise around Zakynthos took us past Marathonisi, better known as Turtle Island, one of the most important nesting areas for endangered loggerhead sea turtles in the Mediterranean. Unfortunately, the turtles must have had other plans that day.
Then came the western coast. I hesitate to call any place the prettiest we’ve visited because every few days somewhere new seems to steal that title, but this stretch of Zakynthos certainly made a strong case – our favorite spot was Kampi Bay. Towering white cliffs plunged into impossibly clear water that shifted between sapphire, turquoise, and electric blue depending on the angle of the sun. Sea caves dotted the shoreline, inviting exploration, while the water was so crystal clear that it felt as though we were looking through glass.
The photographs may be good, but the reality was even better! Every turn revealed another dramatic cliff face, hidden cave, or dazzling stretch of water. It was the sort of scenery that makes you stop talking and simply stare.
Of course, no visit to Zakynthos would be complete without passing Navagio Beach, better known as Shipwreck Beach. The rusting remains of the cargo ship Panagiotis, stranded here since 1980, sit trapped between towering limestone cliffs, creating one of the most photographed scenes in Greece.
After an overnight stop near Poros on Kefalonia, we continued east toward Nafpaktos. Along the way we passed beneath the impressive Rio-Antirrio Bridge, one of the world’s longest cable-stayed bridges. As always, the view from sea level created the usual optical illusion that had us briefly questioning whether we’d actually fit underneath. (We did.)
The highlight of the passage came shortly afterward when a sea turtle surfaced beside the boat. I sprinted down the port deck with camera in hand and managed to capture a few photos that are generously described as “evidence.” Not exactly National Geographic quality, but the sighting definitely made my day!
That evening we anchored beneath the illuminated walls of Nafpaktos Castle, one of Greece’s best-preserved Venetian fortresses. Perched high above the harbor, it provided a spectacular backdrop for a peaceful night at anchor.
Tomorrow we continue east through the Gulf of Corinth toward the famous canal itself, with a detour first to the home of ancient prophecies, powerful gods, and one of Greece’s most extraordinary archaeological treasures.
Stay tuned!
