Lagos, Portugal: Passing Through Troubled Waters

Tuesday’s trip saw us traveling from Sines to Lagos, a route shadowed by the looming threat of an orca attack (there were 3 attacks on boat rudders in this region just the prior day!). The anxiety was palpable as we navigated the 80 nautical miles over 12 grueling hours. With our crew of three (Karen, Doug & Buzz), each one of us took 1-hr turns either at the helm, keeping watch for orcas, or resting—ensuring two pairs of eyes were on alert at all times.

Much like the fear of uttering Voldemort’s name in Harry Potter, some on board refused to even mention “orcas.” The usually bustling waterway was eerily empty; we spotted only one other sailboat, several fishing boats in deeper waters, and numerous cargo ships. Despite the danger, this route is essential for reaching the Mediterranean from where we picked up our boat, leaving us with no choice but to brave it.

We had researched various strategies to deter orcas, though most were anecdotal. Some sailors recommended making loud noises, others used banned firecrackers, and a few even threw 5kg+ of sand into the water to disrupt the orcas’ sonar. We aimed to stay within a depth of 20 meters, rumored to be less frequented by the orcas – still a challenging task with the steep drop-offs from the coastline and a minefield of fishing pots to navigate between along the coast. We also planned to release our grey tanks (toilet tanks), creating an unpleasant underwater assault if attacked. Haha!

I stress-ate my way through the journey, demolishing an entire package of cookies during my 2nd watch! Despite the nerves, we made it through without any orca sightings. The hardest part came as we rounded the last point, with winds peaking over 30 knots, turning our final hours into a rodeo-like finish.

We soothed our frazzled nerves with a comfort meal of pizza and wine. The next day brought the joy of catching up with Tulane friends, Kelly and Jennifer, over a lovely lunch. However, it was bittersweet as we bid farewell to Buzz, who is returning to the USA. The next few legs will be just the two of us. Yikes! But first, a few days in Lagos to rest and rejuvenate 🙂