Our next stop this season was Paxos, one of the smallest inhabited Ionian Islands, known for its turquoise waters, sea caves, olive groves, and laid-back charm. Once a quiet fishing island, Paxos has become a favorite among sailors, charter guests, and those looking to escape the crowds of larger Greek destinations. It didn’t take us long to see why.
Our first stop was the beautiful harbour of Lakka on the island’s northern tip. We dropped anchor in crystal-clear water and headed ashore by dinghy for dinner at Taverna Nionios, a cozy family-run spot serving traditional Greek dishes. Mack and I both opted for the beef pastitsada (Greek comfort food – aromatic slow-cooked beef, in a spiced tomato sauce served over homemade pasta), Doug went with lamb (a decision that rarely disappoints), and Buzz selected a chicken dish with a delicious local sauce.
With the harbor lights dancing on the water and the tavernas buzzing softly along the shore, Lakka was every bit as beautiful by night as it had been by day.
Back aboard KORA, we switched on the underwater lights and immediately spotted fish gathering beneath the boat. Naturally, the fishing rod came out. And just like that, Mack fulfilled his duties as guest crew, landing our second fish ever aboard KORA (last one caught by Evan on KORA’s maiden sail, June 2, ’24). It wasn’t exactly dinner-sized and was quickly released, but we chose to see it as a sign of good things to come. Coincidence? We think not.
The following morning brought light winds but perfect conditions for exploring the dramatic west coast of Paxos. We motored past towering white cliffs, sea caves, and the island’s most famous natural landmark, Tripitos Arch – a spectacular rock bridge rising more than 20 metres above the sea. Carved by centuries of waves and weather, it remains one of the most photographed spots in the Ionian.
The fishing luck continued. Somewhere along the coast Mack hooked a respectable little tunny destined for a future dinner plate. After several summers of literally no success fishing, we’re beginning to believe KORA’s dry spell may finally be over.
That evening we anchored outside Gaios, the island’s charming capital, and wasted no time renting scooters to explore. Paxos may only be about 10 km long and home to roughly 2,500 permanent residents, but it packs a lot into a small space. We spent the afternoon winding through olive groves, stopping for drinks, lunch, shopping, and plenty of scenic overlooks along the way.
Then came the arrival of Ainsley and Sam. There’s always something special about welcoming new guests aboard, especially when they’re joining us for part of their own European adventure. After welcome hugs, we wandered through town to explore a little before settling in for dinner overlooking the harbor – with KORA sitting proudly at anchor and a week of new adventures ahead.
Back aboard, the official boat tour was completed, cabins claimed, and weary travelers quickly disappeared into their cabins.
The next morning we awoke to gorgeous views out from KORA’s cockpit. Karen and Ainsley paddle boarded into town with a mission: find the bakery. Mission accomplished. Fresh bread, pastries, and cookies, still warm from the oven, made a triumphant return to KORA and were enthusiastically received by the crew.
Not to be outdone, Mack headed ashore shortly afterward and returned with a spear gun, determined to take his fishing game to the next level.
And with that, the anchor was drawn up once again. Next stop: the Lefkas Canal, then we have several more Ionian Islands to explore. This is one of Greece’s most popular sailing regions and we can’t wait! More beautiful anchorages, more adventures, and perhaps – if Mack has anything to say about it – more fish. 🎣⚓🇬🇷
