Sailing into Rab Harbor was a treat for the eyes. From the deck of Kora we gazed at the four iconic bell towers that line the Old Town skyline like sentinels, each one from a different church, rising proudly above the red-tiled roofs. Together they form one of the most distinctive views in all of Croatia. No wonder Rab is often called the city of bell towers. The town promenade curved gracefully along the waterfront, a perfect backdrop to our anchorage – calm, well-protected, and surprisingly uncrowded.
As the sun set, Dad decided to jump in for his ritual evening swim. Armed with his trusty noodle, he splashed about happily – until he somehow managed to get himself tangled in the orange line we’d left trailing behind Kora. Cue laughter, a rescue pull, and a lot of teasing at dinner, where we enjoyed fresh bread, Caprese salad, and grilled fish while the sky blushed pink over the harbor.
The next morning, we packed into the dinghy for the short ride into Rab’s Old Town. What started as a calm jaunt quickly got sporty, the waves tossing us about. Still all remained grinning! But, when we pulled into Rab’s Old Town, we quickly discovered one small hitch – all docks were privately owned, and there was no dinghy dock. After a few minutes of circling, scanning, and polite enquiries as to where on earth we could possibly land Mum and Dad without making them scale a stone wall like medieval invaders, a kind man from a small boat tour company took pity on us (or maybe just on my bewildered parents). With a wave, he offered us a spot at his dock – flatly refusing any token of thanks, despite our insistence. We like to think he was charmed by Mum and Dad’s adventurous spirit… though it might just have been the look of mild panic on their faces as we tried to figure out a Plan B.
From there, we wandered Rab’s narrow stone streets, where the past lingers in every corner. Mum and Dad tackled the cobbled climbs gamely, pausing beneath the towers that rise above the town.
The four bell towers each tell a piece of the island’s history:
- The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (St. Mary’s Cathedral) dates to the early Christian period (4th–5th century), and was rebuilt in the 12th century in the Romanesque style. Its Romanesque bell tower was added in the 12th century, then rebuilt in the 15th century after being struck by lightning.
- The Church & Monastery of St. Andrew (Benedictine Monastery) was founded in the 11th century (around 1018). It’s bell tower was built in 1181, and is one of the earliest preserved Romanesque towers on the Adriatic.
- The Church of St. John the Evangelist was originally built in the 5th century, then reconstructed in the 11th century in the Proto-Romanesque style. It’s bell tower was built in the 12th century (next to the church), and later restored in the 15th century.
- The Church of St. Justine was constructed in 1573 as a nunnery church. It’s bell tower is the youngest of the four, built in the 17th century in the Baroque style.
Before heading back, we stopped at a local shop for two Rab specialties: Rabska Torta (Rab cake) and artisinal chocolates – figs dipped in white chocolate. The cake, made with almonds, sugar, lemon zest, and Maraschino liqueur, has been baked on the island for centuries. It’s baked in round “barrels,” and typically shaped into spirals, though we went for a larger log to share. History holds that it was first served to Pope Alexander III in 1177 when he blessed the Cathedral of the Assumption, and it remains a treasured island delicacy today. Later that evening we would pair slices of this flaky, fragrant cake, and chocolates with a splash of limoncello – another island specialty that’s quickly become a favorite of mine onboard.
Before heading back, we grabbed gelato and a few groceries, then braced ourselves for the dinghy ride. Doug opened the throttle, sending us flying across the chop as the sky darkened with the threat of rain. Just a few drops hit us before we reached Kora, laughing and soaked in adrenaline. Anchor raised and sails set, we pointed Kora’s bow north toward Krk, hoping sunnier skies awaited us just ahead.
