After Kaitlyn’s early morning departure, Kora felt a little quieter. We took our time getting going, then set sail north to Uvala Mirine near Šibenik. Up front, Mum and Dad (Geraldine and Ray) stretched out on the cushions, faces to the wind, soaking in the Adriatic views.
We dropped anchor in the shadow of something extraordinary – The Wall of Oštrica (Bedem Grebaštica), a 15th-century Venetian wall that once defended the village of Grebaštica from Ottoman raids. Stretching across the narrow peninsula, its stone bulk looks as if it still stands guard over the bay. Swimming with that backdrop felt surreal, especially as the evening light turned the wall to gold.
The next morning, the sun had returned in its full glory, so we hoisted our sails and were off for maybe our best sailing of the season. Light winds built throughout the day to 25 knots, requiring us to put in a first reef, and then a second reef, with Kora reaching speeds up to 8.5 knots. Ray took his place proudly at the helm beside Doug, grinning into the wind, while Mum and I opted for the comfort of the salon, sheltered from the wind but with a perfect view of the action.
By afternoon, we were easing Kora onto a T-dock at Marina Borik in Zadar, perfectly placed for a trip into the Old Town.
Zadar is often called Croatia’s “living museum,” where Roman ruins, medieval churches, and Venetian palaces mingle effortlessly with cafés and shops. Passing through the Land Gate, built in 1543, we wandered streets that felt like a step through time. The Roman Forum in Zadar, built by Emperor Augustus in the 1st century BC, once served as the city’s central public square, lined with temples and civic buildings that made it the heart of Roman life on the Adriatic. Nearby, we saw the round stone of the 8th century, Pre-Romanesque Church of St. Donatus, the bell tower of the Zadar Cathedral, and the lively People’s Square, once the medieval Platea Magna, which was dominated by the 16th-century City Guard (Gradska Straza).
Down on the promenade, we paused at the hauntingly beautiful Sea Organ, waves playing their strange, ethereal music.
Dinner followed, where we introduced Mum and Dad to Croatian mussels – “ukusno!” (delicious!) barely does them justice. We were a bit too eager with the appetizer to snap a photo before most had already been consumed, but managed to grab one before the mains disappeared 🙂
The night ended with a walk along Zadar’s stone walls, looking out over the lights of the city.
Back on Kora, Mum and Dad stretched out to stargaze, content and smiling. Then, a surprise: a young family strolling by stopped to admire the boat. Their three sons, wide-eyed with curiosity, were invited aboard for a tour. The joy on their faces lit the night – a perfect reminder that adventure is always sweeter when it’s shared.
