Albania continues to surprise us – in the very best way possible.
Before arriving, we’d heard all sorts of stories about sailing this coastline. Tales of pirates, questionable anchorages, and reasons to hurry through. Instead, we’ve found ourselves wondering why more people aren’t talking about this place.
The sail to Durres was one of those days that reminds you why you own a sailboat. With the main and gennaker drawing beautifully, KORA happily cruised along at over 7 knots while we enjoyed a lunch of grilled chicken and quinoa salad in the cockpit and watched the Albanian coastline slide by.
Arriving in Durres brought another surprise. The city is a fascinating mix of ancient and modern. One moment you’re looking at Roman ruins dating back nearly 2,000 years, and the next you’re admiring sleek modern architecture, waterfront developments, and contemporary hotels rising above the promenade.
The Venetian Tower and remnants of the old city walls stand as reminders of Durres’ long history, while the massive Roman Amphitheatre, once one of the largest in the Balkans, sits tucked right into the middle of the modern city.
After enjoying a nice dinner, we headed to the waterfront promenade, which was alive with people strolling, exercising, meeting friends, and enjoying the warm evening. It’s the kind of place that feels lived in rather than built for tourists.
The only downside? The marina available to visiting yachts sits nearly a mile from town inside a busy industrial port. Not exactly the postcard setting you’d dream of.
On the bright side, we definitely got our steps in. Karen and Doug logged just over six miles wandering the city, while Buzz and Kate somehow decided that wasn’t enough and added a run to their sightseeing schedule, finishing the day with nearly 24,000 steps. Apparently vacations mean different things to different people.
Getting into our berth provided the day’s entertainment. Picture a tight parallel parking maneuver between a large motor yacht on one side and a full-sized tourist pirate ship on the other. Nothing says “welcome to Albania” quite like squeezing your catamaran between a luxury yacht and a vessel that looks ready to raid the Mediterranean. Doug calmly slid KORA into the gap while the rest of us stood by pretending to be useful. Once secured, we couldn’t help but notice the giant eagle figurehead perched on the bow of the pirate ship beside us. As lines were tied and fenders adjusted, someone declared that “the eagle has landed” – and thankfully, so had we.
Another day in Albania. Another reminder that sometimes the places you’re least certain about become the places you enjoy the most.
