There are Greek islands… and then there’s Ikaria. Named after the mythical Icarus, who is said to have fallen into the sea nearby after flying too close to the sun, Ikaria is famous for something rather more down to earth these days – its remarkably long-lived residents. It’s one of the world’s five original Blue Zones, where people regularly live well into their 90s and beyond. Whether it’s the Mediterranean diet, slower pace of life, strong sense of community, local wine… or perhaps a little of everything, no one seems entirely sure. We were keen to find out for ourselves!
The sail north from Patmos was one of our easier passages. Around 25 nautical miles, we enjoyed the sail with the sun on our faces and the wind in our hair. We lingered over breakfast underway, enjoyed the sunshine, and by mid-afternoon eased KORA into Agios Kirykos Marina on Ikaria’s southern coast.
After topping up on a few provisions, we set off on foot for Therma, about a 20-minute stroll up and over the hills to a pretty little waterfront village known for its iconic thermal springs.
The midday sun made us question our decision – particularly given the stairs involved. Walking to soak in hot springs on one of the warmest days of summer also seemed… optimistic. But the walk there was made all the more pleasant by the interactions we had with several friendly locals who stopped to point us in the right direction, offering recommendations on where to swim, where to eat, and, perhaps most importantly, where to enjoy a good drink later.
By the time we reached Therma, the boys had already found the perfect strategy. Cold drinks. Comfortable chairs. Shade overlooking the beach. They were set!
Amanda and I chose the more adventurous option. The beach itself was a little rocky (water shoes recommended!) and the water refreshingly cold… perhaps too refreshing.
After cooling off, we wandered a few metres further along to the famous thermal springs, where naturally heated mineral water bubbles into the sea.
Ikaria’s hot springs have attracted visitors since ancient times. Rich in minerals including radon and sulphur, they’re believed to help with arthritis, joint pain and circulation. Whether science agrees with every claim or not, I have to admit… my left knee had been giving me some trouble lately as past injuries tend to do, but it did feel a little happier afterwards! Maybe the Ikarians are onto something.
Back at KORA, showers were quickly followed by another important mission. Find goat! Doug and I have been raving about this common menu feature, but hadn’t found any the past few stops. Evan and Amanda were keen to try it!
It was on that premise that we found ourselves at Taverna Klimataria, a charming family-run restaurant tucked away in a side street behind the harbour beneath a canopy of lush green vines.
The owner greeted us warmly… until we asked whether we could order fried courgette and squid. We got a sharp “No.” Not, “Sorry, we’ve sold out.” Just…”No.” Slightly nervous about what else might earn the same response, we hesitantly continued on with the rest of our order. Fortunately every other dish received a encouraging “yes” and “very good!”
The oregano goat was beautifully tender, the rooster stew rich and comforting, and we also shared lamb, pancetta and several other traditional Ikarian dishes, all washed down with homemade wine.
Feeling adventurous, we also sampled Retsina, Greece’s famous pine-resin wine. The menu warned us not to approach it with preconceived ideas. We tried. We really did. But, let’s just say, we were very happy to switch to the regular Greek white house wine.
By the time we wandered back to the marina well after 11 o’clock, we discovered we’d acquired another crew member. A cat had made itself entirely at home in the helm seat, looking thoroughly unimpressed by our return.
After politely evicting our furry skipper, we settled into the cool evening breeze while Evan made one final heroic dive into the crystal-clear marina to retrieve Amanda’s sunglasses from the seabed. Mission accomplished!
Despite fish circling KORA beneath the lights, we unanimously decided we’d run out of energy to even attempt to catch our own food. Tomorrow would be another day…
