We slipped away from the dock around 10 a.m., a seamless departure under a sky that promised nothing but a good day out on the water. The winds were fickle, so it was a mix of motor-sailing and letting the sails stretch when they could. Time passed easily – chatting, laughing, and soaking in the Adriatic’s shifting blues against the green-stitched coastline. The weather was as close to perfect as it gets: 72–83 °F (22–28 °C), warm but never oppressive, with just enough breeze to keep us comfortable.
The day began on a high note: poached eggs atop crusty toasted bread with roasted vine cherry tomatoes (that’s “tuh-MAY-dohs” if you’re American, “tuh-MAH-tohs” if you’re Aussie. With Cam in the galley, I’ve had to start revisiting my “native language”. Whatever you call it, the man can cook, and Doug and I are in heaven!
Out on the water, we admired some truly beautiful yachts, the kind that tempt you into looking up specs and imagining “what if.” A local fisherman provided a different kind of distraction when he drifted, blissfully daydreaming, straight into Kora’s path. A quick call of warning was answered with a gesture that needed no translation – the unmistakable crotch grab. Well… not exactly the friendly thank you I was expecting, but hey, at least we avoided a collision.
By midday, we were easing into the bay of Šipanska Luka, a serene village on the western coast of Šipan – the largest of Croatia’s Elaphiti Islands. Cam, with his years on the water with Sydney’s water police boats, made catching the mooring ball look effortless. His coiled lines and knots could be framed as modern art.
Our mooring fee came in the form of a short paddle board over to the local bar – not a bad deal for panoramic views, cold drinks, and golden sunshine. We made a game of guessing the distance back to Kora (estimates ranged wildly from 100 to 250 meters), and Khali and I decided to swim it. The water, now warmer than that experienced in Montenegro, was bliss. Cam even dove in to clear some slime from Kora’s speedometer – this man’s earning his keep and, yes, his return invite.
Later, we took the dinghy ashore. Šipanska Luka is the kind of lazy little town that moves at its own pace: stone houses in various states of charm and disrepair, gardens heavy with summer fruit and vegetables, and a small church, St. Stephen’s, at its heart.
Back aboard, Cam and Khali turned out another feast – chicken teriyaki with broccoli served over rice – as the sunset poured warm light over the bay. We ate on deck, letting the glow fade into starlight.
Tomorrow’s plans were made, and Kora rocked us gently toward sleep. Out here, with the salt still on your skin and the water whispering against the hull, there’s no better lullaby.
