Another bright Croatian morning found us gliding across calm waters, breakfast in hand (thank you, Cam!), heading for the lush, pine-scented shores of Mljet. On its northwest tip lies Mljet National Park, a protected area covering about one-third of the island and holding the title of Croatia’s southernmost national park. This narrow, green gem of the Adriatic is famed for its two saltwater lakes, where the larger of the two cradles a tiny island topped by a centuries-old Benedictine monastery.
Docking here comes with a twist – there’s a $100 fee just to anchor inside the park. But book a night at a local restaurant with the same spend, and that fee is waived. Easy choice. Dinner and docking? Sold!
Well… almost. Our first attempt saw Kora lined up perfectly, two stern lines ashore, one slime line on – when the VHF radio crackled: “Excuse me, Kora… I think you’re at the wrong dock.” Cue sheepish smiles. We slid over to Stella Maris, where a friendly owner welcomed us warmly – despite my less-than-stellar toss of the stern lines, which somehow went straight up into the air instead of to him.
He pointed us toward the bike rentals and mapped out our route through the park. Soon we were pedaling off on electric bikes – which, despite their name, still gave our legs and lungs a workout thanks to Mljet’s rolling hills. We climbed past dazzling overlooks, the lakes below shifting from emerald to sapphire, each turn revealing another postcard-perfect view
At one point, the road ended at a small ferry slip. We left our four bikes propped casually against a stone wall – untethered – and hopped aboard the ferry to St. Mary’s Island. Here, the monastery stands serenely surrounded by the glistening waters of Veliko Jezero (meaning Large Lake). Inside, it was quiet, no monks in sight, but the tranquility was broken only by the gentle lap of water against the stone quay.
The Benedictine Monastery of St. Mary dates back to the 12th century, its stone walls standing much as they have for over 800 years. Built in a Romanesque style and later adapted with Renaissance touches, it has weathered centuries of history while watching over the still, blue waters of Veliko Jezero.
Afterward, we couldn’t resist a swim in the sparkling waters – calm, clear, and utterly refreshing – followed by what we all agreed was the best ice cream bar we’d ever had (sorry, Magnums … King’s bars take the blue ribbon!).
Then came another ferry ride around the lake, before reclaiming our patiently waiting bikes for a loop around Veliko Jezero. The path hugged the shoreline, shaded by pine, the wind in our hair, and bursts of laughter echoing from sunbathers and swimmers.
One of the ride’s unexpected highlights came when we crossed an overpass above a narrow canal linking Veliko Jezero (large lake) and Malo Jezero (small lake) – the two saltwater lakes at the heart of the National Park. Below us, the current swirled gently as swimmers floated through, grinning like kids on a water ride, drifting from one lake to the other.
Eventually, we made the climb back to Polače, steep enough to have us grateful for those electric assists, before coasting down to Kora. Cranberry Cosmopolitans and a cold beer became the perfect transition to the evening. Khali and Cam even went out for a lazy paddle around the lake on the SUP boards.
Dinner at Stella Maris was everything you want from a day like this – fresh seafood, a sunset turning the bay gold, and the contented quiet that comes after miles of cycling, swims in turquoise water coves, and a full day in the sun. Mljet had worked its magic!
