Finally… Poseidon gave us a break. Our 40-nautical-mile passage to Antiparos brought 10–17 knot winds, relatively gentle 2–3 foot seas and, for the first time in several days, a crew that could actually enjoy the journey rather than simply endure it.
With KORA’s mainsail still resting while we await answers about our newly discovered crack, we sailed much of the way under a reefed jib. Not exactly KORA at full strength, but after the seas we’d experienced earlier in the week, nobody was complaining.
And then came our arrival. As we rounded into the anchorage, the sky ahead seemed to come alive with color. Kite surfers raced back and forth across the bay, their brightly colored kites swooping high overhead, while the sails of windsurfers carved through the water beneath them. Everywhere we looked there was movement – sails flashing against the blue sky, boards skimming across the sea, riders occasionally launching themselves into the air. It was spectacular!
We poured some drinks, pulled together a charcuterie board and simply sat aboard KORA watching the show. It was awesome!
Eventually, Antiparos tempted us ashore. So into the dinghy we hopped, headed to the Chora.
Antiparos Town has that unmistakable Cycladic beauty – whitewashed buildings trimmed in blue, bougainvillea cascading over walls, narrow stone lanes and tiny churches – but with a decidedly stylish twist. Chic boutiques sit beside traditional tavernas, candlelit courtyards hide behind unassuming doorways, and restaurants spill into little pedestrian lanes that seem designed for wandering.
After the traditional mountain lanes of Kea and quiet little Loutra, Antiparos felt livelier and more cosmopolitan, yet somehow still wonderfully laid-back.
Our crew quickly divided according to priorities. The men found cold drinks. The women found boutiques. Everyone was happy!
Eventually we reunited for dinner at Epéstrefe Aegean Bistro, whose name, rather fittingly, means “to come back.” Considering this was Doug and Karen’s second visit to Antiparos this summer, we couldn’t have chosen better! From the street it looked like another lovely little bistro, but tucked away out back was a beautiful courtyard filled with greenery and soft evening light – the kind of hidden setting these Greek islands seem to do so well.
And then came dessert. By now you know we take our responsibility to support Greece’s gelato industry very seriously. Tonight’s contribution was made at a shop with perhaps the most memorable name of the summer: The G Spot. We’ll just leave that there.
Back aboard KORA, the ouzo made another appearance. OPA! Music, laughter, good friends and the lights of Antiparos glowing across the water made for one of those wonderfully uncomplicated evenings aboard.
This was a return visit for Doug and me, but Antiparos reminded us why we’re happy to come back. Even when you anchor in the same bay and wander the same town, there always seems to be another little courtyard, laneway or corner waiting to be discovered. It’s part of the attraction to this style of life sailing around the Mediterranean!
