Over the past two days, we downshifted just a little bit more in Montenegro’s sweet spot: Tivat Bay and the Boka Kotorska fjords. We floated from Uvala Ljuta to Morinjski Zaliv, enjoying the peaceful days and picturesque limestone mountains that make up the fjords, then on to Zelenika – cruising calm waters, reading books, bingeing podcasts, and paddleboarding with just the slightest motivation. We even got the laundry done. It was blissful – and just the pause we needed before crossing borders again. The yellow stars in the map below highlight our final two days in Montenegro, while the orange stars mark some of our earlier stops along the way.
But don’t let the laid-back vibe fool you! We were still on the hunt for something memorable. Enter Konoba Ćatovića Mlini, tucked into the lush river estuary of Morinjski Zaliv. Originally, we had planned to dine there the next night… until we realized we’d miscalculated and needed to be anchored near our checkout point in Zelenika by the next morning. Cue a scramble to shift our reservation, pull anchor in Uvula Ljuta, and motor 1 hour to the next inlet, Morinjski Zaliv. The effort was worth every nautical mile!!!
We picked up a mooring ball near the mouth of the stream leading to the restaurant (Oscar, see the photos below – this was a textbook example!), got properly scrubbed up, and took the tender in for dinner.
What a setting! Ćatovića Mlini isn’t just a restaurant – it’s a whole mood: a centuries-old mill turned oasis, with lush gardens, wooden bridges, and lanterns twinkling over stone-lined waterways. It felt like stepping into a fairy tale – if the fairy tale involved garlic-infused home-pressed olive oil, amazing seafood, and chilled Macedonian wine.
We began with fresh-baked Montenegrin bread (oh, how we’ve missed good bread – Italy, we love you, but while your pasta rocks, your bread does not!), an assortment of homemade cheeses, and a drizzle of olive oil that tasted like sunshine and sea spray. For mains: sea bass with truffle cream and black rice (Karen) and zucchini-wrapped prawns with carrot sauce (Doug). Every bite: decadent. We finished with a duet of desserts – rich chocolate fondue and the local delicacy, Boka Kotorska cake, a centuries-old recipe reserved for weddings, holidays, and, as it turns out, farewell dinners.
After dinner, we returned to Kora under cover of night, her soft underwater lights casting a welcoming glow in the dark. Just as we settled back aboard – around 9:23pm – fireworks burst into the sky once again. Always some strange number of minutes past 9 pm. Every time. Still no clue why… but it felt like Montenegro’s way of saying goodbye.
We spent the morning hours lazily soaking up the scenes of Morinjski Zaliv – watching everything from elegant old ketches to zippy foiling boards slice through the water. Paddleboarding dogs, bustling beach clubs, and the quiet inlet leading back to last night’s magical dinner spot made for a perfect send-off vibe.
Before making our final stop in Zelenika to check out of Montenegro on August 4th, we couldn’t resist one last slow cruise past the dreamy beach houses near Tivat – private coves, walk-out beaches, and balconies made for morning coffee or a sunset glass of wine with a sea breeze. Imagine calling that home base while sailing the Med!!!
We currently sit anchored near (a swimmable distance!) the harbour master and police docks in Zelenika. Tomorrow, early morning, there’s paperwork to be handled. But for now, we’re enjoying the view and choosing to let the memories of this coastline linger a little longer.
Next, the compass points north. Croatia awaits. But Montenegro? You surprised us, delighted us, and fed us exceptionally well. From paddleboards to prawns, you’ve given us stories to savor. We wish we had time to stay longer!
