After just a 16-nautical-mile hop from Tivat, we found ourselves enveloped in the dramatic beauty of the Bay of Kotor – a place where towering cliffs plunge into still, reflective waters that feel more like the Scandinavian fjords than the Mediterranean coast. But make no mistake, this gem of Montenegro is very much its own storybook setting.
Sailing past Our Lady of Rocks, the historic islet chapel near Perast, the elegant Temple of St. Matija, and several other villages, we were surrounded by scenes so dramatic and cinematic, it felt like Montenegro was trying to outdo itself at every turn. The cliffs of the fjords loomed, the light danced, and Kotor greeted us like an old friend – which, in a way, it was.
We first visited Kotor eight years ago on a Mediterranean cruise with my parents, Kaitlyn, and Emily. As we eased into our first evening at anchor – kayaking across the glassy bay – there was a strong sense of déjà vu. These were the same waters we’d paddled with the girls all those years ago! Back then, Doug tackled the steep climb up the Kotor City Walls walk while the rest of us retreated to the ship afterward to cool down and catch up with my parents. But this time? I was determined!
That night I whipped up a silky carbonara for dinner using the authentic Italian method (no cream, thank you very much). Eggs, Pecorino, pancetta, pepper, and a lot of love. Here’s the recipe if you want to join the revolution. Oh, so delicious!
The next morning, we dinghied ashore before the heat of the day had set in, and, fuelled with pre-hike gelato (yes, that’s a training strategy), we set off to tackle the climb up to the San Giovanni Fortress. The stats…
- 1,350+ steps
- 920 feet (280 meters) elevation
- One hour of switchbacks, sweat, and spectacular views
The stone path winds its way up the ancient walls, past the Church of Our Lady of Remedy – a stunning midway landmark perched on the hillside – and finally opens up to jaw-dropping panoramic views over the Old Town and the aquamarine bay below. Somewhere in the glimmering waters far below, Kora bobbed peacefully, a tiny white speck framed by fjords.
For me, this climb was more than just a bucket-list activity. It was a quiet personal victory, still less than a year after fracturing my hip. Reaching the top where the Montenegro flag flew proudly felt like reclaiming strength, step by uneven step.
Afterward, we descended into Kotor’s UNESCO-listed Old Town – a maze of cobbled alleys, medieval churches, Venetian facades, and … cats. So many cats. Sunbathing on stone steps, curled up in archways, darting between café chairs. Kotor’s feline residents are practically historic themselves.
Making our way to Piazza of the Arms, the Old Town’s lively main square, we enjoyed a well-earned lunch: grilled octopus salad and a chilled Aperol Spritz for me, and a satisfying burger for Doug. We popped into St. Tryphon Cathedral, its weathered Romanesque facade sheltering centuries-old frescoes and stories.
Back on Kora, we lounged in the cockpit sipping cool drinks and dipping ciabatta bread in olive oil infused with fresh chilies and thyme. The steep fortress walls we had just conquered towered above us. What an awesome view!!! Lucky for us, there’s leftover carbonara waiting – because we’re far too wiped out to do much more than reheat and collapse. Our Apple watches reporting over 100 flights of stairs!
And looking around at the flotilla – Aussie flags flapping, Kiwi boats bobbing nearby – you’d be forgiven for thinking we were in the southern hemisphere. Home, but not. Our second and final night in Kotor ended with a surprise firework display lighting up the bay – an absolutely perfect finale to our stay.
Dinghy docking tip for future visitors to Kotor: There’s no public dinghy dock near Kotor’s Old Town – all the docks along the waterfront are privately owned. But we discovered a handy little inlet just outside the harbor, to the right near the tennis courts. Tucked in and well-protected, it had a few tiny but sturdy metal rings perfect for tying off the dinghy – free and easy.
