Coasting Through Color and Gentle Winds, with Creamed Honey on Our Minds and a Cave That Eluded Us

Today was all about coasting – and not just in the sailing sense. With 7-10 knots of wind gently nudging us along on a broad reach, Kora stretched her sails and glided through a modest 3 ft swell. It was just 20 NM, but enough to remind us of the rhythm of the sea – a little bumpy, a little breezy, and wholly blissful. There’s something quite special about sailing under canvas power alone, especially when you’re not racing a schedule but following the wind.

We tucked ourselves into a quiet cove in Zaliv Trašte near Almara Beach Club, perfectly poised for an early visit to Montenegro’s famed Blue Cave the next morning. As the sun dipped low behind the cloud bank, the mountains lit up in a haunting, mystical shade of rose-gold – not your classic postcard sunset, but a stunning, moody masterpiece all of its own.

The morning greeted me with a sunrise a sunrise at 5:42 am that made the early alarm more than worth it. Kora gleamed in the golden light, peaceful and poised, and I caught a few perfect photos before the stillness shifted.

Doug, recently recovering from a shoulder injury, gave his new workout board – a thoughtful Christmas gift from Emily – its maiden voyage. I snuck in a workout too, then took full advantage of the calm by swinging open the starboard hatches and enjoying one of the most satisfying showers of the trip, gazing up at a sky so rich and blue overhead.

Sadly, the Blue Cave itself wasn’t in the cards. With onshore winds, no real anchoring options given the 80+ ft depth of water, and an onslaught of eager motorboats circling the entrance like bees around honey, we made the call to sail in close, admire its beauty from a distance, snap a few pictures, and carry on.

And speaking of bees around honey. A quick shoutout to my brother, Geoff, and sister-in-law, Jody – the team behind Melibee Honey – their creamed honey from the New England High Country of Australia is the real deal!!! Last night, I tuned into their interview on ABC Radio (so proud!) and listened while looking out over the water. Hearing them speak about bees, sustainability, and the care behind every jar made me feel connected to home in the sweetest way. Message me on Facebook or Instagram (@sailingkora) if you want a copy of the interview to listen to!

While relatively uneventful, the sail along the stretch of coastline between Bečići and Tivat, which lies along the Budva Riviera and transitions into the Luštica Peninsula, offered a kind of magic. We were surrounded by a mix of vessels – sleek monohulls heeled over dramatically as they sliced through the sea, their crews leaning into the spray, sails taut and full of attitude (that’s the one thing a catamaran doesn’t do!), and the unmistakable lines of mega yachts that began to dot the horizon.  Apparently, we’re not in quiet coves anymore. Ahead lies something glitzier, grander, and far more polished… 

Next stop: Tivat – where the playgrounds of the ultra-wealthy meet the adventures of our humble floating home. 

Stay tuned!