Backing up just a bit in my blogging to Reggio Calabria (my last post made on July 22) – to capture a particularly intense and purposeful stretch of our journey…
After seven weeks of coastal wanderings and leisurely sails, we kicked things up a notch on July 21, departing Reggio Calabria with a mission: to cover serious distance, beat the ticking Schengen clock, and push into new waters as we set our course for the Adriatic – headed to Montenegro first (a non-EU country), then Croatia. The southern coast of Italy, bordered by the Ionian and Southern Adriatic Seas, might not make the top of a tourist’s bucket list, but for sailors like us, it’s part of the grand adventure.
The long, dramatic Ionian shoreline between Reggio Calabria at the toe of Italy and Santa Maria di Leuca on the heel of the boot is mountainous and steep, offering few safe anchorages. Dry, industrial, and often overlooked, the Golfo di Taranto is more practical than picturesque. Several websites call it the “poor cousin of the rich north”.
Like many sailors before us, we made a beeline: first to Crotone (an ambitious 122 NM overnight sail that took 25 hours), then onto Santa Maria di Leuca (72 NM, this time 14.5 hours). That second arrival was a dream – 9pm drop of anchor into 25 feet of clear, sandy bliss, lit beautifully by our underwater lights. The kind of moment that feels like the sea is on your side.
From there, we tackled the short Southern Adriatic stretch up to Brindisi (70 NM over 13 hours). With only six harbors and limited shelter, we chose Brindisi for both its safety and proximity to our next stop: Montenegro.
What we didn’t expect was the drama waiting for us…. Just as we settled into the comfort of air conditioning and a brief reprieve from the 96 °F heat (with humidity regularly flirting up above the 90% mark), we checked in with our neighbor, Charles, back in Houston. His advice? “Don’t rush back!” Fair enough – if anyone knows heat, it’s a Houstonian. But with our current temps and humidity, we’re giving Texas a run for its sweaty money. At least we’ve got the sea breeze (and a boat that floats)!
Then … just as we were cooling off … a plume of black smoke broke the calm. A boat near the marina was on fire; likely, a brave soul had moved it from the dock and thrown the anchor just in time to avoid a mass catastrophe before jumping overboard. We were shocked at how rapidly it became fully engulfed in flames. Our hearts broke for the owners, and we were reminded how quickly disaster can strike. A boat fire at sea is even more terrifying – no help nearby, no safe escape, and the unthinkable reality of having to abandon ship into open water. When the fireboat roared in, its wake rocked the marina – Doug scrambled and tossed out one of our large ball fenders just in time, saving Kora from a hard knock. Fortunately, they were able to put the fire out fairly quickly, and we heard reports the next day that no one had been injured.
We spent just one night in Brindisi, enjoying a well-earned dinner ashore and listening to live music drifting through the piazza. Grateful for our safe passage so far, we mapped out the next leg of our journey – hoping for fair seas ahead.
The next morning brought the final round of EU formalities. Doug ran the gauntlet – Port Authority, Border Police, Coast Guard – with the help of a local agent, while Karen prepped the boat and located our flags. The yellow Q flag is used to signal that we’re arriving from international waters and requesting clearance into a new country. It is pulled down once clearance is obtained. By noon, we cast off lines and pointed Kora east for our second overnight passage of the season: 115 NM across the Adriatic to Montenegro (about 21 hours).
Above, you can see all four flags currently flying on Kora. On the starboard spreader are the flag of Montenegro – where we’re presently sailing as I write this post – and the yellow Q flag, indicating we’ve entered from international waters and are awaiting customs clearance. The port spreader is reserved for courtesy or personal flags; we’re proudly flying the Australian flag – my home country. And at the stern flies the U.S. flag, required for all vessels registered in the United States, like Kora.
In just five days, we have covered 384 NM – 30% of our journey so far!!! It’s been intense, it’s been hot, and at times, it’s been heart-pounding. But now, with new shores ahead, we’re ready to significantly slow down the pace and soak it all in. We’ve earned this!
Montenegro, we’ve arrived. Time to go check in!
