Sometimes the most peaceful days sneak up on you … with just enough edge to keep things interesting.
We left early and slipped quietly down the Calabrian coast, motor-sailing our way south yet again. The wind, as has been the pattern this summer, barely stirred – just an hour of honest sailing today. But we’ve come to accept that ‘sailing’ the Med can mean more hum than hoist… and that’s okay too. It’s just a different rhythm. We are still soaking in the shifting coastlines, the sun-warmed rock faces, and that wide Mediterranean blue.
By late afternoon, we dropped anchor about 200 meters offshore at Flumefreddo Bruzio, in 34 feet of crystal-clear water. There wasn’t a sailboat in sight, only the hum of beachgoers lingering on the long, flat shoreline. We stayed farther out – it shoaled up fast near the beach – and Kora settled into her gentle evening sway.
And then came the jellyfish.
Not one or two… but maybe a few dozen seen during our stop. Beautiful. Alarming. Utterly mesmerizing.
Barrel jellyfish – Rhizostoma pulmo – drifted around us like translucent ghosts. These creatures can grow over two feet in diameter, and while their sting is considered mild for humans, it’s enough to send a shiver down even the bravest among us. They’re common in the Mediterranean this time of year (though it was our first sighting this year!). Their slow, pulsing movement made them look almost graceful… if not for the slight panic they incited in certain members of our crew (Amanda Macaluso – you know my fear of jellyfish oh too well!).
Despite the gelatinous drama below, the kids leapt in for a swim, fearless as ever. The adults? A little more discerning. Aunty Karen opted for the high ground … watching from the deck of Kora, laughing uncontrollably as Steve and the kids wobbled, shouted, and ultimately toppled off the paddleboard in dramatic, splashy fashion. Pure joy. Pure chaos. Precisely what these kinds of evenings are for.
As the sun dipped low, we cast out fishing lines, half hopeful, half symbolic, and shared our final meal together onboard. Yes… It was Mediterranean seafood pasta with a side caprese salad. And yes… the “catch of the day” was ahem, tinned tuna. Don’t judge us – it was surprisingly delicious. Salt, garlic, fresh herbs, zucchini & tomatoes … and the smell of the sea can make even pantry staples taste like a five-star feast.
But it was the night that stole the show… We sprawled out on Kora’s front deck, limbs tangled, hair damp, bellies full, eyes wide. Above us: the inky sky pricked with stars. Around us: the hush of waves, the shadowed outline of the Calabrian hills, and the glowing switchbacks that zigzagged up into the distance. We talked, we laughed, we got a little sentimental.
Photo credit to his lovely wife Catherine
Tomorrow we sail to Vibo Valentia – the final leg of this unforgettable journey together. Then, early goodbyes and new adventures. There might be a pause in postings over the next few days. Doug and I are off to Berlin to see our girl Emily and cheer on the Aussie Uniroos at the World University Games! So much excitement still ahead, but tonight, we lingered in the moment.
