We awoke to a stunning sunrise over Ponza, its golden light streaming through the side hull window – just enough time to snap a quick photo before drifting happily back to sleep. The beauty of life at sea…
After days of turquoise anchorages and sea cave adventures, we sailed into Ischia – a lush, mountainous island just off the coast of Naples. We’ve heard that Ischia is beloved by Italians for its natural hot springs, volcanic beauty, and laid-back atmosphere. It’s part spa retreat, part historic gem, part pizza-and-pastel paradise. Somewhere along the sail, we paused to cheer on cousin Emily playing volleyball overseas for Australia – a special moment that connected our journey at sea with hers on the court.
We arrived with the sun blazing overhead, so our first hours were best described as “survival mode.” Translation: cold drinks, salty snacks, air conditioning, and zero guilt about doing absolutely nothing. It wasn’t until early evening that we ventured ashore, refreshed and ready to embrace the island’s charms. And embrace them we did!
Dinner that night at Cantinando was a full-on feast. We started with an aperitivo trio – tuna tartare with passionfruit, mussel soup, and octopus salad – all light, fresh, and delicious. Then came pasta: one seafood spaghetti, one a fresh tomato-based delight. For mains: grilled octopus and the island’s signature dish, rabbit Ischian style – slow-cooked with tomatoes, garlic, white wine, and herbs, and absolutely fabulous. A contender for best bite of the trip.
The next day, we set out to see some of the island’s best sites with a strategic heat-management plan. The first stop was Castello Aragonese. Perched on its own rocky islet and connected to Ischia by a causeway, this 15th-century fortress looks like something out of a fantasy novel. Once home to monks, nobles, and even political prisoners, it’s now open for exploring and offers some spectacular views! Breezes at the top, tunnels below, chapels carved into rock, and secret gardens throughout.
Next up was a quick detour to a local spot for refreshing drinks and some of the best focaccia sandwiches we’ve ever had. Then, we headed to Giardini La Mortella, lush botanical gardens, where we found a magical jungle of tropical plants, shaded paths, lily ponds, and even a Thai pavilion. The breeze off the water and trickling fountains gave us just enough reprieve from the sun to keep going.
When the heat finally got the best of us, we headed to Negombo, one of Ischia’s famous thermal parks. (The island has over 100 hot springs, thanks to its volcanic roots!) Nestled on a hillside above a quiet bay, Negombo offers 11 different spring-fed pools at varying temperatures, with shady loungers, sea breezes, and peaceful vibes. Oscar, slightly incredulous, asked, “Why are we going to hot springs in this heat?” Fair question. But once he found the cooler pools and waterfall massage jets, he was converted.
Back at the marina, we cooled off and cleaned up before heading out once more … this time for a sunset stroll and late dinner. The evening glow across Ischia’s harbor was unforgettable. We feasted again on wood-fired pizzas and more rabbit. But this time the highlight was dessert – warm, custard-filled “baba” pastries, a local treat that melted in our mouths.
After two nights in port, we sail again tomorrow. Stomachs and hearts both full – looking forward to seeing what the next days bring!
